Concept.
I first visited the Panna Meena Kund in 2016 and was struck by its architectural beauty and weathered colors.
I was inspired in my youth by a painting of stairways by M.C. Escher called Relativity, and this stepwell was the closest thing I have seen that reminded me of that work. When I returned to Jaipur in February(16th) 2024, I wanted to create some photos that, in addition to recording the architecture and color, would capture capture a sense of the history, culture, and people. I accomplished this by hiring three women from the Kalbelia tribe, who are also Gulabo Sapera folk dancers, to re-enact traditional water gathering scenes in a way that would complement the architecture, while under the most interesting natural lighting conditions.
The Scene.
Step wells (Baori or Kund), ancient water storage structures in India, date back to the 2nd millennium BCE. They served as vital sources of water for irrigation, drinking, and bathing, especially during dry seasons. Their unique architectural designs, with elaborate staircases leading down to varying water levels, facilitated access. Stepwells also functioned as community gathering spaces, providing relief from the heat and fostering social interactions. There are more than 2000 stepwells in India, and around 200 in Rajasthan.
The Panna Meena Kund has no written records, but local villagers think is was built in the 12th century before Rajput rule. The step well functioned for nearly a millennium, until around 1970, when the community water started to be sourced from a dam and irrigation lines. From 1970 until it served as a swimming hole and cool place to gather for the community. In the last four years access to the steps has been closed and the water goes unused(I needed to obtain a permit for my shoot on the steps). The Panna Meena Kund is unusual from other Indian stepwells in its smaller size, only 1800 steps, and the plastering and painting of its sides which allows the beautiful colors to develop over time.
The Models
The Kalbelia tribe, indigenous to Rajasthan, India, is known for their rich cultural heritage and unique lifestyle. The name "Kalbelia" stems from their traditional occupation as snake charmers and handlers, with "Kal" meaning "snake" and "belia" referring to "people who catch." Their folk dance, the Kalbelia dance, is renowned for its graceful movements, rhythmic footwork, and vibrant music, often depicting themes of nature and wildlife.
Gulabo Sapera, a prominent Kalbelia dancer, played a pivotal role in popularizing the Kalbelia dance globally. Her mesmerizing performances showcased the beauty and intricacy of this folk art form on international platforms, earning her acclaim as a cultural ambassador for Rajasthan and India. In recognition of its cultural significance, the Kalbelia dance was inscribed on UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2010.